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Sunday, 12 February 2012
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Wish you were here - Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park

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sugarloaf rock - 001132.jpgWant to go whale watching, swimming, fishing, surfing, camping, snorkelling, caving, bushwalking or sightseeing? Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park in Western Australia's south-west has it all. Renowned for its rugged sea cliffs, windswept granite headlands, Boranup karri forest and formations such as Canal Rocks and Sugarloaf Rock, the park stretches 120 kilometres from Bunker Bay in the north to Augusta in the south.

Between Cowaramup Bay and Karridale, the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park features some of its most rugged and inaccessible coastline. Facing due west, the coastal cliffs and rocky shoreline bear the brunt of giant ocean swells generated across thousands of kilometres of ocean by the prevailing westerly and south-westerly winds. Scenic lookouts are stationed along the coast, allowing you to marvel at the ocean's beauty and power.

At Canal Rocks, in the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park, the granitic rocks which jut into the ocean are separated by a series of canals that have been hollowed out by the sea.

One of the loveliest spots to visit is the historic homestead at Ellensbrook, which is managed by the National Trust. The turn-off to Ellensbrook Homestead, off Caves Road, is nine kilometres from Margaret River, and it lies a further four kilometres along Ellensbrook Road. A walk trail leads to a cave and the delightful Meekadarabee Falls, known to Aboriginal people as the ‘bathing place of the moon', which is at its best in winter and spring.

lnnp 004021.jpgBoranup karri forest (pictured), within the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park, lies between Caves Road and the coast, and creates a powerful contrast with the rest of the coastline. Tall pale-barked karri trees, reaching 60 metres or more high, dominate the hilly slopes and valleys. Gravel roads suitable for two-wheel drive vehicles wind through the forest to picnic and camping spots. A short walk takes you to Boranup lookout, which gives sweeping views over the forest and the coast west to Hamelin Bay.

Whale watching

Each winter, beginning around late April to early May, the Australian humpbacks leave Antartica to migrate northwards to their tropical calving grounds along the west and east coasts of Australia. During the migration north, humpback whales can be seen off the Cape Naturaliste coastline from July onwards and on their return trip south from October to December.

 

Fishing

Between the months of May and June, huge schools of Australian salmon make their way up the coast north to Perth on their annual spawning run. The salmon, between four and eight kilograms, are keenly sought by anglers with both lures and bait. A bag limit of five fish per person per day exists. Full details are available from the Department of Fisheries.

Surfing and snokelling

Surfing is also popular at many well known breaks on the western coast, such as Smiths Beach and Yallingup. Coastal walk trails and steps down sand dunes have been provided at many places to help prevent erosion.

In the right weather conditions, there are some enjoyable and safe places to snorkel, such as at Prevelly and Gnarabup. Scattered along this coast are sheltered bays suitable for launching small boats, such as Kilcarnup, Cowaramup Bay and Prevelly. Tracks to the more isolated surfing and fishing spots on the coast are often restricted to four-wheel drive vehicles, because of the rough limestone that protrudes from the road surfaces.

Caving

Two self-guided unlit caves, Calgardup and Giants caves, are located within this national park. Calgardup Cave is especially spectacular because of the water covering the floor of two caverns. Elevated platforms and interpretative signage have been built through the cave so people can relax, enjoy the exquisite beauty at their own pace and without a guide.

Giants Cave, for the more adventurous visitor, is roughly 800 metres long. It features extremely large chambers and requires the visitor to negotiate a series of ladders and scrambles over rocks. There are numerous spots where the caver will want to stop, relax and absorb the beauty of this world-class cave formation.

Bushwalking

Various walk trails are scattered throughout the park, ranging from a few hours duration to overnight and for the beginner to experienced bushwalker. Further information regarding these trails is available from visitor centres in the region.

  • Bunker Bay: Easy 2.5 kilometre, one-hour walk through heath, with breathtaking views of the coast and lookouts, from which you may see whales.
  • Cape Naturaliste Track: Medium 3.2 kilometre, one to two-hour walk with views over Cape Naturaliste. Travels through small limestone "pinnacles" en route to a stunning whale lookout.
  • Meekadarabee Falls: Easy two kilometre, 40-minute walk from the historic Ellensbrook Homestead to the delightful Meekadarabee Falls. The trail and all facilities are accessible to the disabled.
  • Cape To Cape Walk Track: This 140 kilometre track from Cape Naturaliste to Cape Leeuwin can be broken into a number of shorter sections:
    • Canal Rocks to Wyadup: Medium, four kilometre, two-hour return walk with outstanding views. Begin at the car park on Canal Rocks Road.
    • Cosy Corner to Skippy Rock: Challenging 20 kilometre full-day hike for experienced walkers. The terrain is magnificent but rugged, involves long stretches of sand and scrambles along narrow rock platforms. Vehicle pick-up essential.
    • Hamelin Bay to Cosy Corner: Medium 13 kilometre, four-hour walk with magnificent views from the Hamelin Bay boat ramp to Cosy Corner and back. It involves some easy scrambling and negotiating short, steep sections.
    • Water Wheel to Skippy Rock: This medium three kilometre, one-hour walk via beach, rocks and bush begins at the Leeuwin Waterwheel, near the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse in Augusta.

Camping

The park has several campgrounds with basic facilities. Located off Caves Roads onto Conto Road, popular Conto Campground facilities include toilets, barbeques, picnic tables, water and individual sites in the bush.

If you prefer to stay someone off the beaten track, Point Road Campground facilities include barbecues, picnic tables, toilets and individual sites. The campground can be accessed via the first track to the right from the northern end of Boranup Drive. It is recommended that access is by four-wheel drive vehicle.

Boranup Campground, located off the southern end of Boranup Drive, provides barbecues, toilets and individual sites.

Where is Leeuwin Naturaliste National Park?

Cape Naturaliste, the northernmost point in the park, is located 36 kilometres from Busselton and 261 kilometres from Perth. Only a three to four-hour drive from Perth, this region is a popular holiday destination for WA locals.

Nearby services and facilities are available from the popular tourist towns of Dunsborough, Yallingup, Margaret River and Augusta. These towns provide a large range of accommodation, shopping, dining,  entertainment, sightseeing tours and dive and fishing charters.

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Magnificent coastal views from Canal Rock. Photo - Dave Wright

Images courtesy Tourism WA, except where indicated.